San Miguel is Still Magical and Still Safe

I am home safe and sound. I am also overwhelmed which is how I stay most of the time these days. What ever happened to my brain during chemo has not come undone at this point or it may be any other medication…who knows?

So, no banditos or any other of the media sensationalized events were encountered. San Miguel has fewer criminal deaths than San Antonio on any given weekend. I just love the place. And amazingly, Len likes it. I don’t know that he loves it but that’s ok. He had a great time and plans to return….but I made it abundantly clear he is not invited for Day of the Dead. That is a girl friend outing, plain and simple. He says he will go again but wants to stay on the golf course…he said that yesterday, but today after playing golf on his 69th birthday eve, he tells me he doesn’t know if he will be able to play golf much longer. Gads, I hope this is temporary. His back is just wearing out….all that body torquing gets to a person after awhile.

I am always saying San Miguel is magical…I met three strangers there–two from Mexico City and one Canadian…in each of our conversations they said, “San Miguel is magic.” So I am not alone.   

Camie and/or Larry had arranged for a driver to pick us up and he was there when we disembarked. Ok, digressing a moment. About 3 or 4 years ago, when we got off the plane there were Mexican Federales with automatic weapons and their faces covered with ski masks all around the tarmac, plane, and customs. Now there are only American Airlines employees. This is a good sign, I think. I feel very safe there…but then I don’t go into neighborhoods where I ought not to go. Same for San Antonio, Dallas, Houston, Chicago, or New York.

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Camie arranged for us to stay with Leslie Von Jaeger…we stayed in a casita behind her home in a beautiful garden loaded with hummingbirds. It was very private and very comfortable. I’ve actually been to Leslie’s home before a few years ago when she hosted some of the St Paul’s Day of the Dead welcome dinners. It is a gorgeous setting. Since the last time I was there, Leslie’s husband died so now she is on her own except for THE most charming adopted, street dog, Hector. He is beautiful and brilliant and knows how to work a crowd. Leslie has family in the US but she says she is perfectly happy in San Miguel and plans to stay forever.


IMG_2297.jpgNow the highlights: We had a great dinner with Larry and Camie at Socialite the first night. Len getting his ‘sea legs’ with the altitude and meeting friends I adore. Next day we went to a cooking class at Sazon right off the Jardin. This is the very first ever, time Len has done anything like this. Gads, he astonished me. He was busy and happy. Who knew? There were only four people in the class…the other two young women from Mexico City. We did a tour of the market where we bought fresh everything then came back and cooked! We cooked, literally. Back to the food. We made fresh corn and poblano strips soup; sopecitos; tortillas; salsa verde; guacamole; salsa ranchera; and churros. We used a molcajete, a wooden tortilla press, and a cool pan for roasting peppers. We also bought fresh rotisserie chickens and other goodies that we ate too. The food was delicious and bountiful.

Hmmmm. I am loosing track of days. I guess it doesn’t matter if I remember what happened when–just if I can remember at all. Consider this: Altitude and alcohol. Now it is coming back.


Good Friday. Breakfast at Camie and Larry’s beautiful home. It is THE House I want to live in. Len agrees. We had breakfast before the first procession came right by their front door. The procession was dear. Camie says the neighborhood kids grow up doing this–the Virgin Mary is carried down one street and Christ another. The two met in front of La Sirena Gorda restaurant. I like this photo of the priest in white socks.


Back on track…maybe. We also saw two more processions. I can’t do them justice with my words. This is a much more somber occasion than Day of the Dead as you would expect. Camie made reservations at two different restaurants wit balconies so we could see from above–very nice. The last procession involved over 1,000 people. I heard that or read it. Not sure. As in Through the Looking Glass, the Mad Hatter or some one said, “If I say it three times it is true.” So to the procession. The women wore black dresses, black stockings, black HIGH HEELS (this is big in San Miguel with their cobble stone streets), black mantillas, and white gloves. The men wore black suits. It was HOT. I was filled with admiration for their commitment. The photo of Christ in the glass coffin was memorable–best without the bank name in the photo.

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Two days later: What’s going on with me? I can’t get my ducks in a row at all. Although I am happy as a lark, I often feel overwhelmed with life list things like errands and chores that I used to love. I must focus and improve.


So back to Mexico and Easter–we went to two church services. One at St. Paul’s Anglican Church where I have gone whenever I haver been in San Miguel. And the other service was at the San Miguel Community Church. Camie met us at St. Paul’s…it was nice to see buddies from previous years. Then we went to the new (3 years-old) non-denominational community church. There were lots of buddies from the past there too. They have visiting priests/preachers who come for an extended period. It was very interesting, a big congregation, and very inviting. I am skipping over so much because I am so tired. After church we went to Carol and Harold W.’s hacienda for a lovely buffet.IMG_2355.JPG

After a siesta for me, and Len watching the rest of the Masters, we met Camie and Larry, Camie’s parents, and Leslie for a drink on the rooftop bar of the new luxury hotel, The Rosewood. It was freeeezng up there but the view was spectacular…especially the sunset. We moved on for a delicious dinner at Hecho en Mexico. I have to have more of the Arranchera.

I am going to stick a few photos in here then go to bed. I am not even doing the trip description justice.

IMG_2344.JPGLeslie’s house is just to the left of number 15 on the short street that goes to the left.


2 Responses to “San Miguel is Still Magical and Still Safe”

  1. hartwish Says:

    I don’t know Susan…this looks pretty wonderful and hard competition for Day of the Dead…maybe I have to try it next year…! Thanks for sharing description and pics; very appealing…!

  2. God it sounds like we all had fun…and didn’t we? SOOOO glad you were here. Now I can love Len too like all your other girlfriends.

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